My finished planner

With the new year, I'm trying to get more organized. My studio is still a work in progress and needs organization, my files on my laptop need to be consolidated, and I won't even mention my kitchen! I decided one thing that would help me better organize on a non-physical level would be to get a planner and schedule my tasks in advance. But wow how I do no want to drop $20 on one!

I had played around with book binding this past summer and still have a lot of the supplies, so I decided to make one instead. It really wasn't too hard. They can be as simple as a pamphlet stitch booklet or be bound with binding rings, or you can go all out and make a traditional codex or use a Japanese stab binding. There truly is no limit to the ways you can put this thing together, not to mention the endless choices for cover paper/cloth.

You can find a wide variety of planner page templates all over the web (I would suggest DIY Planner as the best resource). I couldn't find one that quite fit my needs, so I made my own template. I also decided to bind my planner with screw posts, since the posts can be removed so that I can fill my book with new pages for the next year.

What You'll Need

• Book board or thick cardboard (don't use corrugated cardboard, its weak and could bend)

• Decorative paper or cloth- thin enough to fold easily, but sturdy enough to not rip with regular use (I recommend Paper Source, they have a fantastic selection)

• Glue-you can use any kind of strong adhesive that doesn't dry too fast (in case you need to reposition) that dries clear. For this project, I used ModPodge, but I would also recommend making your own wheat starch paste.

• Plain white paper

• Screw posts-the length really depends on how many pages you plan on using, but you will probably need posts at least ½ in long

• Right angle ruler

• Bone folder

• Awl

• Rubber mallet

• ½ in paint brush

• Craft knife with a sharp blade

• Scissors

• Large metal binder clips

• Self-healing cutting mat (optional)

1. Cut three pieces of book board. The first should be the same dimensions of your pages, plus 1/16 in overhang on each side. The second and third pieces will be the front cover and spine. These two pieces should be the same size as the first when lain next to each other with a 1/16 in gap in between them.

   Example:

• page dimensions-8 1/2 in X 5 1/2 in

• 1^st board (back)-8 5/8in X 5 5/8in

• 2^nd board (front)-8 5/8in X 4 5/16in

• 3^rd board (spine)-8 5/8 in X 1 1/4in

2. Cut decorative paper for covers to size. Each side of the paper should overhang boards by ½ in on every side. Spread a thin layer of glue on the back board and place the board glue side down in the center of one of the pieces of paper. Cut a square in each of the corners of the paper as shown. Fold corners over and glue paper down to board. Now, spread a thin layer of glue on to each of the overhanging sides of paper and fold over to glue onto the board. Follow the same steps for the front cover, except glue the spine next to the front cover with 1/16 in space between them. Use the bone folder to crease the space between the spine and the front cover.

3. Cut 2 pieces of plain white paper (or you can use a complimenting decorative paper) to use as the end sheets. They should be 1/16 in shorter than the covers themselves on each side (example:covers-8 5/8 in X 5 5/8 in, end sheets-8 ½ in X 5 ½ in). Spread a thin layer of glue onto the insides of each of the covers, then position the end pages onto the covers. Use the bone folder to smooth out any air bumbles before the glue dries.

4. Print pages using template of your choice and cut pages to desired size. Stack all of the pages neatly together with one of the covers on each side. Use the binder clips to hold the book together as you punch the holes for binding.

5. Punch two holes large enough to accommodate the screw posts along the right side of the book, centered within the spine on the front using an awl and a rubber mallet. Be sure that all of the pages and covers of your book stay properly aligned while you punch the holes or else your final product won't line up properly when bound. Place a self healing mat under your project while punching the holes to prevent damaging your work surface. If you don't have one, never fear! You can use a spare piece of thick cardboard of a thick stack of scrap paper instead.

6. Thread the base of the screw posts through each of the two holes, then screw the tops on tightly. Ta-da! You are now done. For bonus points, you can glue a small envelope into one of the inside covers to carry business cards or little notes, create a ribbon or elastic closure, or an elastic pen holder.